Monday, June 25, 2012

Mea Culpa to the World Capital of Tres Chic Caffeine

First of all, I've simply GOT to stop posting stray tidbits on my life here in this g-forsaken rice paddy (well o.k. actually an Asian city of 6 million people along with 4 million motorbikes, but still...) exclusively to my Facebook chums, and plop them here instead.  I mean, it's been TWO weeks since I managed to peck anything here for my loyal TL pals.  TWO WEEKS!  And arguably I have more dear eyeballs here than my (deliberately) paltry 80-ish (that's eyeballs, not friends) on Facebook.

Sorry TLers.  But for the little quips, the day-to-day happenings here in Saigon, it just seems quicker to plop a pic and a bit of blather on my personal Facebook page.

But no more.

I hereby declare that TravelnLass shall hereafter no longer be some pure, iconic, glisteningly virgin repository reserved only for long, loquacious tomes of polished and perfected prose.  But rather:  a cheap trash-heap for any and all stray thoughts, notions, delusions that spring to mind as I whiz through the nutso, death-wish traffic on the back of a motorbike and/or slurp a bowl of phố gà before hunkering down to scribble yet another lesson plan.

Towit:  Today's arguably worthless collection of mots consists of...

Just a quick pic of my latest "well, duh!" Asian revelation (and accompanying mea culpa confession to my beloved home-port of Seattle, the premier capital of all things tres chic caffeine.)

My coffee flavor of choice?
"Saigon phin"
(turns out "phin" means "filter" - duh-uh!)
Dare I admit?  I've been committing the ultimate Seattle foodie blasphemy for nearly 8 months now.  Yes, that's right - leastwise here in my bitty kitchen -I've been lazily mixing pedestrian "3-in-1" foil packets of Vietnamese coffee with boiled water each morning, as I dash off to teach the tender young minds of Vietnamese kids the nuances of why we say "bought" instead of "buyed" and "ate" rather than "eated".  Yes, yes "3-in-1", that's the ugly triumvirate of: sugar + artificial creamer + dubiously coffee-bean-worthy uh, "coffee".  Indeed, the latter more like the watered-down 9:10 mix of street-crack - but a mere ghost of "Fair Trade" 100% aribica coffee beans.

The truth is, I was never what you'd call a connoisseur of "the bean" even after 25+ years living in Seattle-cum-Starbucksland (though... I could always spot the velvety goodness of a cuppa "House Blend" upon first sip - I mean, who couldn't? )


Nonetheless, I have absolutely NO EXCUSE for habitually sipping - what I dare say is like a combo of packaged ground lentils mixed with a smidge of coffee - for so long.  Thus today I finally came to my senses and dropped 22,000 dong (the equivalent of a single greenback plus change) for the quintessential little metal single coffee strainer gizmo that sits on each glass of delicious espresso served in the steets here in Saigon.

Yep.  Pretty pathetic, I know.

And the result?  I dare say nothing short of NIRVANA!  Goodess but I'd forgotten how good freshly-brewed caffeine can be.  Spiked with a good gob of sugar and poured over ice - we're talkin' the ultimate in delectable, homemade "cà phê đá"!

Tuesday, June 12, 2012

Newbie EFL Teaching: A Rollercoaster of Highs 'n Lows

There are some 10-odd ILA centers here in Saigon
Alas, none in Dalat! ;(
FINALLY!  A synopsis about perhaps THE most significant part of my new expat life here in Vietnam.  My transformation from newbie CELTA grad (w/ nary a single HOUR's experience teaching English to youngsters) to...

g-knows I still have TONS to learn, but I must say, in but 5 months of steady teaching, I do believe I'm (finally!) getting the hang of this "Teach" thing.

The truth is, follwing the CELTA I was DEE-termined to NOT stay here in Saigon, but rather - move up into the cool hills of Dalat (about 8 hrs. by bus from the nutso swelter that is year-round Ho Chi Minh City) and settle down to begin my new teach career - ideally dabbling in a bit of part-time private tutoring amid the (did I mention C-O-O-L?) greenery.  I surely don't HATE it here in Saigon, but suffice "nutso" and "swelter" simply aren't my cup of tea as a long-term "home".

So... while I dutifully turned up for the (guaranteed, to all CELTA grads at ILA) job interview, I honestly half-hoped I"d not be offered a position (no guarantees that would happen anyway).  Ah but not so lucky.  While I was skipping my merry way around Sumatra for the Christmas holiday, I received an email from HR at ILA offering me... the perfect (part time, as I requested) teach job, just 12 hrs. per week at Center 10 in HCMC.  A 6 month contract, at $20/hr. (a fortune here in the cheapy world of Southeast Asia.)

Still... I hesitated a week before replying.  But in the end I figured - given my utter lack of substantive teaching experience - I'd be a fool to pass up a job offer from one of the BEST private EFL schools in Vietnam.  ILA is noted for its excellent teacher development, with a wide range of free workshops offered, great teach resources, and lots of support for newbie teaches like me.  Besides, it was only a 6 month contract after all, and Dalat would still be there come August, yes?

My giggly-wiggly "Jumpstarts" at our "Bye-bye" party at the end of the term.
So... on the 1st of February, I stood in front of my first-ever EFL class - a wiggly, bouncy, giggly, screeeeeching bunch of 5 yr. old "Jumpstarts".  And so it began...

My uh, love/hate affair with teaching English to youngsters ranging in age from 4 and 5 yr. old "Jumpsters", to 6-12 yr. old "Juniors", to 12 to 16 yr. old "Seniors".  And all, at differing "K1B" vs. "J1A", vs. J4B" vs. S2A" levels of English.  In effect - differing significantly in understanding a word that I was blathering there at the front of the class.


Seriously. How cute is THAT?
 Initially I was assigned three classes, each 2 hrs. long, meeting twice a week on Saturday and Sundays.  In retrospect I was quite lucky - starting with the full spectrum of age groups: 10 of the wiggly-giggly 5 yr. old "Jumpstarts" mentioned above; a class of 12, cute-as-buttons "Juniors", and my largest class - a group of 18 (!) hormone-bursting teens.  Quite the challenge for this newbie EFL Teach (with nary a single "tool" in her "Teach Toolbox"), but the variety has been an invaluable learning experience.

At first it would take me hours, upon HOURS to devise a lesson chock full of enough activities to fill 105 minutes, as teaching youngsters that speak little English requires a unique set of teaching methods to keep them all engaged (and not bouncing off the walls 'cuz they don't understand verily HALF of what you say.)  A wide variety of short quick activities (i.e. 15 - 20 minutes at most) with lots of "stir" and "settle" periods.

How I managed to get through those first few lessons is a wonder, but it was the incredible help and support of my fellow ILA Teaches that kept me going.  Ever patient and ready with a nifty "warm-up" activity, they quickly made me feel confident and part of the team.

Still... the lesson plans continued to take seemingly forever.  While my more experienced collegues scribbled out a plan on the back of an envelope in 15 minutes, for the life of me, I couldn't seem to devise a 2 hour plan in less than... uh, sometimes as many as THREE full hours!  Furthermore, as I'm only paid for "contact hours" (i.e. actual teaching hours) not any prep work - needless to say my effective hourly rate was looking pretty grim.  So grim in fact that - though I genuinely LOVED the "teaching" part - I seriously began to wonder if my new  teaching "career" (at 60-something) was worth it.  I mean, why not simply loll on a tropical beach living off my pension?  Why beat myself up for 6 bucks an hour?

Ah but ever so slowly, little by little, week after week, I just kept plugging away.  And finally, about 3 months into it, something "clicked".  Somehow I'd figured out how to whittle the planning time (and still produce a highly educational and fun two hour lesson).  For each lesson I'd try something new, and what worked well went into my shiny new teacher "tool box".  And what didn't - well, I likewise learned to go easy on myself - that every blessed lesson needn't be a work of freekin' ART.  So if something fell apart, I simply discarded it or reworked the activity to better fit the language level of my students.  Along the way, in just 5 short months, I've now amassed a goodly little stash of activities that I can adapt to most any language form, level and group size.  I can pretty much plan a lesson in my sleep, and teaching EFL to most any age group is now both easy and purely FUN!

Indeed, even today, surprisingly, I honestly can't say which age group I favor teaching.  The little ones are adorable of course, and require the least in lesson planning (heck, they'd be happy with 2 hours of nonstop "Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes").  But more than a class or two of that each week could get mighty boring for the Teach.


My angelic "Juniors" - uh leastwise if you have
plenty of stickers handy!
 The Juniors are simply the suh-weetest - so coy and quiet and obedient - as long as there's plenty of "stars" and stickers in the end.  Oh my yes, g-help you if you forget the stickers - those angelic little Junior darlings will turn on you like a pack of WOLVES!

Then there's the Seniors.  Ah yes, still my biggest challenge.  All dears, every blessed one of them, but teaching a class of (now 19!) Vietnamese teenagers English is verily like the proverbial "herding cats"!  Still, their vocabulary is the most advanced, and one can devise far more diverse and interesting discussions and activities than for the younger kids.

And finally, we have the adults.  Yes, I've even acquired a bit of experience with teaching Vietnamese adults.  My good chum Hang has started a small English school, and I've taught a few classes there to help her out.  Adults of course are a bit more demanding than the youngsters, expecting (sometimes unrealistically) swift audible PROGRESS for plunking down their hard-earned dong.  Nonetheless, teaching adults is most rewarding - to watch them slowly expand their vocabulary, polish their rusty grammar, improve their pronunciation (the universal nemesis for EFL students of all ages), and speak English with confidence.

My dear "Seniors", momentarily attentive...
...if there's computer games nearby!
As for my teaching future?  I'm all over the map with that question.  On one hand, even after this initial 6 month contract finishes at the end of July, it's tempting to re-enlist for another stint.  ILA is an excellent school, and they've been very good to me (heck, there was that private swimming pool at Mui Ne after all, yes?)  But...

I definitely am now itching to travel and presently am planning at least a month's adventure in August/September (more on that delicious notion in my next post.)  Conveniently, the lease is up on my apartment August 1, so there's nothing to stop me from wandering into a few more of the exotic lands on this side of the globe.  But after that...  not sure just where I'll resettle.  Likely Dalat (but could be Thailand), but in any case I'm certain to always dabble in a bit of EFL teaching wherever I may roam.  With my degrees, plus the CELTA plus now a diverse bundle of experience teaching at one of the most respected schools in Southeast Asia, I now feel qualified to teach at most any private school I choose, opt for private tutoring, or perhaps just volunteer teach wherever I happen to land.

And now, I leave you with a rare little video that I shot with my iPod Touch - my adorable "Juniors" slapping up "next to", "above" and "below" fish in our white-board "aquarium".

video

Thursday, June 07, 2012

Mui Ne, Vietnam - a Quick Getaway

Romana Resort - Mui Ne, Vietnam
 Just a quick one here (yeah, like THAT's gonna happen - I mean, when has my blather EVER been brief?)  But seriously.  Lots to do here lately - 2 additional classes (one, ILA summer school, plus helping my chum Hang out teaching a class at her new English school, ECE), plus I'm anxious to tell you about what I'm planning for my next adventure - the next chapter in this crazy expat romp in Asia.

But first I want to share some pics from my most recent little getaway - to Mui Ne, a sweet little beach just 5 hours from Ho Chi Minh City.

The impetus for this little escape (following so shortly after my wonderful 5 days in Cambodia) was the annual school retreat for all the Teaches and staff at ILA.  They foot-the-bill for piling all of us (more than 200 of us!) into buses and heading to the tropical shores of Mui Ne beach on the South China Sea (otherwise duly known as the "East Sea" to politically sensitive Vietnamese) for an overnight at an (OMG opulent!) 5-star resort, including transport, all meals and...


I KNOW!  I couldn't believe we had a PRIVATE pool, neither!
 Did I mention "OPULENT"? digs at the Romana Resort.

As a single lass, they paired me with a roomie, Maria, a fellow Teach about my age who was delightful.  But our collective karma must have been off the charts the day we arrived 'cuz... somehow we lucked out and were assigned a "villa" with... our own PRIVATE SWIMMING POOL!

Seriously.  This place was over-the-TOP, drop-dead FABULOUS!

The retreat included fun and games on the beach - a treasure hunt, sand-castle building, volleyball, and some (apparently "American") beer-drinking game involving ping-pong balls and cups of beer (yep, we Yanks are nothing if not creative with our get-blotto competitions).  Me?  I merely watched the youngster's swiftly submerge into oblivion as I demurely sipped but a single can of Tiger, and then headed back for a dip in...

DID I NOT MENTION???  MY OWN PRIVATE SWIMMING POOL!

The meals at the Romana were incredible, especially the evening's pool-side "Seafood Collection" dinner lit by twinkly lights with BOATLOADS of THE most deliciously fresh seafood I've ever eaten (I must have had two dozen barbecued clams ALONE!)

And the following morning (those of us crazy enough) opted to wake up before dawn and head to the nearby "White Dunes" (as opposed to the apparently lesser "Red Dunes") to watch the sun rise.

But best of all - given that ILA had already transported me to such a glorious beach haven on a Monday (and me, with nary a single class during the week) - I opted to stay an extra two nights and head back to Saigon on my own on Thursday.  Of course, that meant I uh, moved out of the opulent digs so kindly provided by ILA (bye-bye private swimming pool!) and transferred to a (perfectly comfortable albeit not nearly so luxurious) place (Sunshine Beach Resort) down the beach.

O.k., o.k. (as predicted) this is turning out to be not so "quick" after all (sigh...)  Enough already, I've got lesson plans to write.  So best I cease my incessent chatter, and swiftly wrap this little getaway up by simply dropping a bunch of pics so you can see for yourself what Mui Ne is all about.

The TravelnLass goes opulent
Requisite (now a tradition) pic of the TravelnLass' toes in situ
24 hrs. of...

...luxury!




The White Dunes

View from the balcony of my more dong-appropriate ($25/nt.) room down the beach

On Wednesday I got up early and took the local bus (just 4,000 dong) to the fishing village



After, I sloshed my way down the cool and serene "Fairy Stream"


And on my final night, I discovered a most delish barbecued seafood restuarant...

...where I stuffed my face with curry and nearly a dozen (more!) barbecued clams
(we're talkin' - with wine, < $6)  ;)

Tuesday, June 05, 2012

My Passport is now a TOME!

*50* crisp new pages to PLAY with!
I have sooo much to catch up on here - pics and details of my decadent 4 days at Mui Ne Beach for starters, plus the low-down on the final plans for my next adventure. Not to mention the loooong overdue tale of my EFL teaching here in Saigon.

But those will all have to wait a tad longer.  For today, I'll just jot a quick note on an essential beauacratic dilemma that - sooner or later every long-term traveler must face:  What to do when your passport becomes chock FULL of various 'n sundry stamps and visas, and there's no more room for say... that nifty new Mongolian stamp you've got planned for August?

Turns out the answer is easy-peasy (leastwise for a U.S. passport here in Vietnam - for those who hail from other lands, YMMV).  Two choices: add pages to your passport, or apply for a new one.

If your current passport is close to expiring (say, within a year - most certainly if you have less than 6 months on it), then applying for a whole new passport is the ticket.  For $110 (and good for 10 years), it will come with 24 crisp new pages - though 7 of those will already be filled - one with the standard photo/info/signature page plus another six pages devoted to fine-print blather.

Alternately, if like me - your passport still has 5 years of "life" in it, then it's more economical to simply get pages added to it.  Interestingly, when I telephoned the U.S. consulate here in Saigon to confirm the details of doing so, I learned that...  A "set" of 24 added pages costs $82.  But most curiously, you can optionally request TWO sets (i.e. 48 added pages) and... the price is the same: 82 bucks - no charge for the 24 extra pages.

It's all Oh-fish-al and everything
(I mean, it's not like I simply stapled in my own scrap paper!)
So guess which option I chose?

True, my passport now feels like a copy of War and Peace, but hey - I've now got nearly *50* blank pages to recklessly fill with yummy visas to my heart's content!

Clearly moving in and out of 25-50 different lands over the next 5 years will take some serious globe-skipping.  Ah it's a dirty job - but SOMEBODY'S gotta do it! ;)




Pretty snazzy, yes?
Interestingly, the new pages are a tad swankier than the old - instead of plain ol' anemic blue with ughy "STATE OF..." (Rhode Island, Nebraska, et al) stamps faded in the background, the new pages are... still a sickly, washed-out mix of blue, yellow and pink, but now they each have a snazzy pic of the many icons of American landscapes (i.e. purple mountain majesties and all that, plus the Lady with the flashlight, etc.)




P.S.  Also on each new page is a saccharine patriotic quote.  My favorite?

"It seems to be a law of nature, inflexible and inexorable, that those who will not risk cannot win."
John Paul Jones